And then onto Bangkok, and Khao San Road, travelling with Louise from England, whom I met sunbathing topless on Ko Tao (her, not me - I always wear a top owing to my fair complexion and poor body image! :) ). Prior to the bus trip (from Chumphon to Bangkok), I'd read online about all the tourist scams involving VIP buses in Thailand, so I was pretty suspicious when our bus stopped by the side of the road for 20 or so minutes in the middle of nowhere a few times during the trip. I never did work out what was going on, but I arrived with all my possessions accounted for...

By the time I arrive in Bangkok, my attitude to rats has changed from revulsion to mild curiosity, and when we see a rat in our restaurant, we go after it to get a better look – although some of the other customers leave without touching their food, which is probably a more typical response... For accommodation, we end up sharing a prison-inspired β€œcell” on Soi Rambuttri. One night of stale air and my snoring was more than enough for Louise, and we parted company the next morning (she had to leave anyway, I swear!).


I found a better room just off Khao San Road ( I think at the http://minla10170.tripod.com/" rel="nofollow">Four Sons Inn ) and spent a few nights pubbing and clubbing, catching up on the English Premier League, and avoiding the attentions of the lady boys and short-time girls that are everywhere in the tourist parts of Bangkok. I'll admit I was a little naΓ―ve when I first arrived in Bangkok, and thought all the mixed-race couples were great, until I realised just how many middle-aged white men happen to be backpacking by themselves in Bangkok – I certainly didn't see many of them in Singapore and Malaysia! It must be awkward for genuine mixed-race couples holidaying in Thailand...

I met Australians for the first time in my travels (the idiot in the Penang cable-car doesn't count!), and went clubbing with them and some Americans. The nightlife in Bangkok is pretty decent, although I've heard that it was better prior to the coup, since now there is (officially) a curfew, and only back-alley places remain open till early morning – which explains why I found myself being motoed to the same crappy, over-priced bar at the end of the night two nights running... Still, I had a good dance, and didn't damage my brain or liver permanently.

I did quite a bit of walking around the Banglamphu and Ko Rattanakosin districts. There was some huge event going on at the Sanam Luang, maybe a sports carnival? Thousands of people in yellow t-shirts with the Thai royal coat-of-arms on it, which is almost a national uniform for Thais at home and abroad (except on Fridays when they wear blue for the queen, IIRC). Apart from that I didn't really find many interesting sights; eating, drinking and night-life seem to be the main attractions of Bangkok – although I'll admit I didn't venture very far from the tourist districts.