Since the last entry, we have had the opportunity to explore the cultures both within the city of Oaxaca and its surrounding towns.  I must admit that since my level of comfort with Oaxaca is pretty high now, it's been good to see how different the surrounding areas can be and then compare them to what can be observed in Oaxaca. 

A more personal lesson than your typical online encyclopedia for those interested in Oaxaca:

Oaxaca the city is called Oaxaca de Juarez, named after its hero, Benito Juarez (or Benny as we have come to know him so intimately).  The city is essentially the capital and hub of the state of Oaxaca, so when people refer to "Oaxaca" within the state, they usually refer to the city.  Oaxaca is a charming "large town/small city" with about 600,000 people.  The historic downtown is mostly where it's at and covers about 30 or so square blocks with its colonial arquitecture.  Now, back to business.

With our focus on community development in most of our developing areas, IEP had the chance to explore a rural culture and try to understand better the issues faced by many indigenous people.  This included a visit to Teotitlan del Valle, a town about half an hour outside of Oaxaca (city).  We met with a women's weaving cooperative and started the day by getting our hands dirty.

We arrived in the pleasant village to be greeted by one of the Zapotec (an indigenous culture) weaving cooperatives, founded on the principal of women's independence.  We didn't waste time as we arrived on the site where we would begin to construct a Temezcal, or ritualistic and healing sauna.  The construction consists of a clay and stone foundation and walls and bamboo thatched roof. 

After a couple hours of digging the foundation, moving stones, slushing in the mud, and shucking bamboo, we were invited to a lovely lunch hosted by the women's weaving cooperative.  They then went into their history and described their empowerment as mostly unmarried or widowed women that have come together and become socially and economically independent.  They also explained how the various natural tapete (rug) dyes work and about the various symbolic designs of the rugs. Our afternoon was completed with a hike through the mountains and a better understanding of how even rural communities are connected to a more global society in many ways.  

Back to Oaxaca.  The local culture continues to intrigue here.  Not a day goes by that doesn't contain some sort of parade, festival, celebration, or music of some sort.  One can walk from the north section of town, beginning with a small band or parade, parouse the pedestrian street while hearing various street performers with accordians, to the infamous Zocalo and its blend of Mariachis, street performers and weekly symphonies.  It has happened on a couple occassions now that a parade strikes up and finds us in the middle of a celebration and we have no idea what the cause is!  (not a bad thing at all)  This week in Oaxaca the festival celebrating the the Virgen Guadalupe took place in the Llano and maintained a carnival-like atmosphere and great environment for people-watching (young children in particular that are dressed in traditional garb: girls in long white dresses and boys in mariachi-like outfits with mustaches) and snacking on local treats.  

The Corn Festival is another highlight of the past week.  We returned to Teotitlan del Valle.  I experienced a lovely conversation with a fellow bus passenger about U.S.-Mexico relations, and her experience in the U.S.  It is not at all uncommon to meet Oaxacans that have spent time in the U.S.  The Corn Festival gave great insight into the small town, their culture and traditions.  We had the chance to follow the parade throughout the town, trailing the giant corn cob as all the locals peered out of their windows and doors.  Naturally, once back in the town square, the vendors displayed their various foods made of corn (tortillas, tomales, popped corn, etc.).  As the sun set, a children's theatre play was put on in the town square - a lovely end to a festive day.