At last, after a long day among the wealth and beauty of Tsaritsuno Palace built for Catherine the Great (more on that later), I found a famous Dom Bulgakova. For those of you who do not know, Michail Bulgakov was a Russian writer during the first half of the twentieth century, author of celebrated "Master and Margarita."

So here I am, sitting in this legendary apartment on Bolshaya Sadovaya Street, sipping coffee and listening to quiet music. Everything around me seems so surreal. There is an old piano, bookcases around the room full of books and other memorabilia. There is an old metalic calendar that you have to flip in order to change a date - I remember when I was growing up we had exactly the same one. To my left, there is an old gramophon. Old lamps covered with red fablic, pictures and paintings of fabled Black Cat. This takes me to a different Moscow, a night city - gone are noisy streets, rushing passerbyes - and I find myself in the city of artists, secrets and magic, city where fantasy defines reality. All of a sudden I feel myself surrounded by Bulgakov characters - Woland, Berlioz, Bezdomnuy, Margarita and Behemoth ... and I am waiting for miracles to happen...