Saturday we did make it to breakfast and decided to go to on one of the river cruises - the Batobus - down the Seine. Several people had told us to really see Paris, you have to see it from the river. The half had not been told us. Again the weather was breathtaking.

The skies were almost cobalt blue, and they provided the perfect backdrop for the architecture of the city and the color of the leaves. The Batobus is a hop-on, hop-off ride down the Seine.

We started at the Eiffel Tower and looped around the Isle de la Cité and stopped at the Champs-Elysees stop. The city was built around the river, and the river has repaid the favor. Seeing Notre Dame, the Grand Palais, the Eiffel Tower, and the city's many bridges from the Seine offers a perspective that cannot be gotten from the land.

The weather was cool - around 45 F when we started, so being on the river required jackets, gloves and hats. But it was worth it. The boats are glass topped if you don't want to be out in the weather, but the rear deck is open. The crew sits up front. The porter (?) announces each stop in both French and English. The whole ride takes about an hour.

We got off at the Champs Elysees because we wanted to see the Grand Palais. The building is another work of art, and is across from the Petit Palais, both built in the 18th Century. We wanted to get into the Grand Palais, but because of the FIAC art show there was a long line. Thinking we could see the whole building we waited about an hour to get into an exhibit by Gustave Courbet. The exhibit was an additional charge above the museum pass (they don't cover everything; some special exhibits are exempt). But the show was worth it. The Burial at Ornans, The Artist in his Studio, and The Origin of the World were among the works on display. We saw all there was, but we did not see the rest of the Palais. From the Palais we went to the Champs Elysees to try to find some food. We did not have time to stop by the store on the way out, and breakfast was long gone.

What did we find among the Toney galleries and stories (Louis Vuitton and YSL among them)? A STARBUCKS! Yeah it might have cost us almost $20, but a couple of sandwiches and a couple of American-sized coffees were worth it!And of course, across the street there was a chocolaterie! Dark Chocolate truffles! To die for, and eat them slowly. It's like making love.

From the Champs Elysees we took the metro to Montmartre to see Sacre Couer. The church itself is at the highest land point in Paris, and offers panoramic views of the city. (I personally thought the view from Notre Dame was better, but you decide for yourself).

In Montmartre, we wanted to eat at a crêperie - not dessert crêpes - meal crêpes! And we found the perfect place. We stopped into an angel store - it sold angels of all kinds and sizes - and the lady there - a matronly woman, smartly dressed and speaking perfect English - directed us to La Duchesse. It was a gift from God. The place itself could not have been 15 ft deep and 10 ft wide. There was room enough for five tables - three tables for four and two tables for two. Two college girls and another couple were the only ones in the place besides us. The waitress spoke broken English, but I was able to remember enough French to order. I had a crêpe with ratatouille and Cornelia had one with egg, ham, cheese and onions. They were magnificent. For dessert, I had a Nutella crêpe and Cornelia had one covered in chocolate. We both had cider to drink. Wonderous!

After dinner we climbed the steps to Sacre Coeur. Since it was a Saturday night, there were plenty of young people there on the steps. There was an open mic and a few of the guys sang - in English - including one guy who sang "Winds of Change" by the Scorpions, including the whistling - which in the 40 degree air was no small feat. Others drank wine or played the djembe or talked. The church did not allow photographs inside - it is a working Catholic Church - but it was worth the effort to see the mosaics. Above the high altar is one of the Trinity surrounded by French saints and popes. The Father is on one side of the domed ceiling; the Son on the other, and the Holy Spirit - a dove - is in between the two. It was stunning. Descending the steps, you get views into some of the houses along the hillside. One house had windows that were two stories tall. It was like something out the movies.

When we got to the bottom, some African dude tried to tie a string on me, and get me to stop. I figured he was trying to con me, so I told him to go away and pushed past him. "Hey, don't push me," he shouted after us. I felt like getting in his face and saying "do me the same favor." But I didn't. No need for that. We were on vacation.

We caught the metro back to the hotel. It was a night to remember. Especially La Duchesse. It's small, painted red and black and next to a smoke shop. Make a point of stopping there if you go to Paris.